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Japanese ladies walk outside Tofukuji temple in Southern Kyoto.

Say you have a full week to be in Japan. After spending three days in Tokyo — where the main theme is modern Japan — like most other first-time travelers to the country you would naturally want to visit Kyoto, a hub for traditional Japanese culture.

The first time I went to Kyoto, I realized three days were not enough – there are just too many places to see and too bad to miss. And you would want to enjoy the old capital of Japan in a leisurely pace, not as though you had to keep an ambitious count of places to visit. So, if possible, I recommend 4 days in the city. You can keep other places in your next visit list (yes, Japan definitely deserves more than one visit!). It’s no fun visiting too many places in a short amount of time anyway.

Kyoto is roughly divided into five regions: Southern, Western, Central, Eastern and Northern Kyoto. Check out this Japan tourism site for details on sightseeing spots in each region: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2158.html. I found it really helpful. They have maps to access tourist hot spots and everything.

A simple map of most popular Kyoto sites. (From Traverse World)

But of course it’s impossible to visit all the tourist spots. Kyoto has countless temples, shrines, historic and nature sites that you simply have to decide which you want to see the most – and let the rest of your visit flow (somewhat) naturally.

So, here is my itinerary recommendation for a 4-day tour in Kyoto. The list is based on personal experiences/preferences from my two visits there in 2015 and 2016, and taking into account factors such as proximity between places and to near public transport options. If you can afford 3 days only, just scrap the last one.

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A cherry blossom tree outside the Tokyo Imperial Palace, basically a large garden/park.

An urban jungle, another place crowded with steel and concrete — only with cutting-edge technologies differing it from most of other world’s cities. That was the image that first came to my head whenever I heard the word ‘Tokyo’.

So if you’re a nature fan like me, visiting the capital of Japan might sound unappealing. Well, it did to me at first; that was before I went to see the city myself.

And now, I don’t think I could have been more mistaken. Tokyo does have a lot of skyscrapers, modern railway networks that include the high-speed Shinkansen bullet trains, with men in business suits (and women in fancier work dresses) traversing in hurry through the stations and down the streets every rush hour.

But hey, it turns out that Tokyo is way more than that. The Japanese capital appears to have no shortage of greenery. I saw parks, parks and parks across many parts of the city. And they’re among the major reasons why Tokyo ends up becoming my top favorite place, out of the total five cities and towns I visited during my trip to Japan in April — which include Kyoto, Nara, Osaka and Koyasan.

So here are the list of my top five favorite places in Tokyo, most of them are parks or have a park, from the least to most favorite:

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Higashiyama ward in Kyoto, an old capital of Japan. (Photo by Erwida Maulia)

Higashiyama ward in Kyoto, an old capital of Japan. (Photo by Erwida Maulia)

It wasn’t until September last year I began my fascination with everything Japan.
Okay, not everything. But I have certainly developed fascination with Jdorama (Japanese dramas) and Japanese culture, to the extent that Japan suddenly grabbed the 1st place on my Must-Visit list, when it had never even been on the Top 5 before (not that I’ve ever put more than five countries in the periodically changing list).
The Japanese have movie director Miike Takashi, actors Oguri Shun and Higashide Masahiro, and the Crows movie trilogy to thank for.
I’m not a fan of Miike, let alone his inclination for gory movies in general. But the school-fight action movies Crows Zero and Crows Zero II which he directed  — and which are not gory — got me gobsmacked immediately, made me a fan of Oguri who starred in those two movies (although I later found his characters in other productions to be too repetitive), and finally introduced me to Higashide Masahiro.Higashide played the lead character in the third movie, Crows Explode, which was directed by another director and was the lamest, I think, of the trilogy. Nevertheless I got a terrible crush on the 189 cm-tall actor (uncommonly tall for Japanese), which happened only briefly because I soon read about the news of his marriage with a Japanese actress. I was broken-hearted 😥
Higashide Masahiro in Crows Explode, the third in the Crows movie trilogy. (Photo credit: japantimes.co.jp)

Higashide Masahiro in Crows Explode, the third in the Crows movie trilogy. (Photo credit: japantimes.co.jp)

Anywayy… that broken-hearted episode did not stop me from developing fascination with other things Japan — the dramas, the culture and lives as I’ve seen on TV screen, the letters (although I can’t read them at all), that I immediately decided to plan a trip to Japan as soon as I saw an AirAsia ad on promo tickets to “Negeri Sakura” (Land of Cherry Blossoms) — as the country is often referred to here in Indonesia.
And so, long story short, I went to Japan with a friend last month.

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Chamonix, a rustic commune in an Alpine valley, retains the pristine scenic beauty that has long made it a favorite skiing and hiking destination. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

Chamonix, a rustic commune in an Alpine valley, retains the pristine scenic beauty that has long made it a favorite skiing and hiking destination. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

Picturesque. That was my first impression of Chamonix as soon as the minibus pulled off the highway and entered the French commune at the foot of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps.

Pretty, small buildings bedecked with colorful flowers; a charming turquoise river running through the township; and everywhere you look, the pine-covered slopes of the close-by mountains with their snow-capped peaks.

Chamonix, also known as Chamonix-Mont Blanc, sits at an elevation of 1,035 meters above sea level in a valley with its namesake in the heart of the French Alps, on the border between France, Italy and Switzerland.

Although administratively part of France, the commune with a population of 9,800 is much easier to reach from Geneva than from Lyon, the biggest French city in Chamonix’s proximity.

It takes a little over an hour’s drive from Geneva International Airport to Chamonix, 80 kilometers to the south, compared with 220 kilometers from Lyon.

Chamonix, with the famous Mont Blanc in the backdrop. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

Chamonix, with the famous Mont Blanc in the backdrop. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

Chamonix is renowned primarily as a ski resort. It hosted the first Winter Olympic Games back in 1924. “Lonely Planet” calls it the “Mecca of mountaineering, its birthplace, its flag-bearer” as it serves as a base for ski activities in the surrounding Alpine peaks, including the 4,810-meter Mont Blanc.

But even if you’re not into skiing or mountaineering, and are into lighter hiking and trekking activities through scenic, mountainous panorama, Chamonix has plenty to offer.

There are dozens of hiking trails scattered throughout the area, and when it’s not winter you can pick from among the trails that best suit your itinerary and stamina. If the number of options leaves you flummoxed, the tourist office in the town center offers free brochures and maps, as well as helpful officers who will point out the best hiking trails to suit your needs. A large map displayed inside the office and some of the brochures helpfully color-code the level of difficulty of each trail, from easy to medium to difficult to actual mountain climbing.

Chamonix. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

Chamonix. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

If you’re still intent on summiting an Alpine peak but aren’t confident about your mountaineering skills, cable cars, gondolas and chairlifts are available. You can take a ride up in one of these, hike for a few leisurely hours near one of the mountain tops, and enjoy the breathtaking panorama of surrounding peaks and the Chamonix valley at the bottom.

Some of the hiking trails lead through pine forests to pristine freshwater lakes, and others to nature reserves home to the famous Alpine ibex and marmot.

There are also several restaurants near the peaks if you feel like indulging in some lunch, or simply sitting and sipping a cup of hot chocolate and enjoying the crisp, fresh mountain air at that height.

After one or more panoramic and/or adventurous hikes, you can go back down to the town center, which offers more options for meals, as well as dozens of hiking equipment stores and souvenir shops. Beware, though, that this being a tourist destination, prices here tend to be higher than elsewhere in Europe.

But thanks to its popularity, accommodation is plentiful in Chamonix, ranging from cheap hostels to five-star hotels.

A restaurant sits on top of a hill facing Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

A restaurant sits on top of a hill facing Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps. (JG Photo/Erwida Maulia)

To get to Chamonix, it’s best to travel via Geneva International Airport, from where you can rent a car or take a shuttle. There are several affordable options for shuttle services at the airport; during my visit earlier this month, there were minibuses and vans departing to Chamonix every hour during the day.

I paid 30 euros ($39) for the trip from the airport to Chamonix on Alpybus, and 42 euros for the return trip with Chamexpress (they offer a later ride, at 7 p.m.).

Going by train is another option, but because there’s no direct line from Geneva to Chamonix, the ride may take more than three hours.

But whether you opt to travel by car, shuttle or train, the route to and from Chamonix is definitely worth traveling, as panoramic views of Alpine landscapes — green hilly pastures dotted with pretty chalets, with the Alps constantly looming in the background — will be your faithful companion during much of the journey.

Note: This story is originally published at Jakarta Globe on Sept. 23, 2014.

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The Aar (or Aare) river flowing through the Swiss town of Interlaken. (Photo by Erwida Maulia)

Swiss chalets dot the bank of Aar (or Aare) river in the Swiss town of Interlaken.

It was as if I truly saw for the first time and that I had always been looking through layers of mist when we stepped out of the train that brought us to Interlaken, Switzerland.

Everything was so clear. The Aare river flowing just outside Interlaken West train station was so blue (turquoise actually), the trees were so green and the snow covering the grass here and there was icy white.

We arrived in Interlaken, a popular resort town in the Bernese Oberland region of the Swiss Alps, in April last year. The winter was longer than usual, and although spring had arrived in many parts of Europe, apparently snow decided to make a brief return in Interlaken — which explains why colorful blooms were buried under the snow, except for some that defiantly sprouted out of the icy mass.

A cluster of blue flowers was hidden under the snow before I removed the icy layers.

A cluster of blue flowers was hidden under the snow before I removed the icy layers.

The air was so fresh and clean, yet was also icy cold, enough to make us wrap ourselves tightly in layers of clothes although just several hours earlier, we had discarded most of our outer clothing in Milan. We boarded the train from Italy’s fashion capital to Interlaken that day, through the Alpine range in the Swiss-Italian border — the most beautiful scenic train ride I have had so far.

We pulled our luggage out of the railway station, through roads dividing rows of small shops — many near the station sell souvenirs — and then through another road, a bit longer, this time bordering a snow-covered field. Across from the field, a long stretch of buildings — including hotels and church — dotted an arm of the Alps half-covered by mist.

Snow in Interlaken.

Snow in Interlaken.

We rented the ground floor of Janis Apartment, a nice three-story Swiss chalet of a sort, half an hour walk away from Interlaken West train station. The owner, the friendly Janis, lives in the basement and rents the two upper floors of the house to guests. We paid some 100 euro for a night stay. Since there were three of us, each person paid around 33 euro. Our floor has two bedrooms (one large with a queen-size bed and the other was small with a single bed), a large living room with sofa and a TV box, a nice kitchen (equipped with a kitchen set, a refrigerator and a nice dining table), a bathroom and another room with a washing machine. It really felt dreamy to wake up that morning and saw a snow-covered peak of the Alps through the window as I opened my eyes, still lying in bed. I highly recommend this hostel. We booked our quarters via hostelbookers.com.

Us in front of Janis' Apartment. (Photo courtesy of Bahri Widjanarko)

Us (plus my aunt’s friend’s family) in front of Janis’ Apartment. (Photo courtesy of Bahri Widjanarko)

Upon dropping our luggage at Janis’, my aunt and I came back to the town center in the afternoon, strolling through small shops, hotels and restaurants, and then along the bank of Aare river from the railway station toward the direction of Lake Thun.

Interlaken is situated between two lakes — from which its name was derived. The Aare river from the Aare Glacier of the Bernese Alps feeds Brienz Lake before flowing through Interlaken into Lake Thun.

Lake Thun, seen from a hilltop in Interlaken.

Lake Thun, seen from a hilltop in Interlaken (left).

We didn’t walk as far as Lake Thun, though, as it was already late in the afternoon and was getting dark. We instead headed back to the town center, where we dropped by at an Indian restaurant displaying a ‘halal’ label on its window pane (we’re Muslim tourists, fyi). Interlaken appears to host an array of Indian restaurants, way more than any other places in Europe I have visited. It looks like the town is a popular destination with Indian tourists. In fact, during the stroll with my aunt that afternoon, we saw an Indian movie crew shooting a Bollywood movie in the middle of the snowy field, featuring a tall, gorgoeus Indian actress — probably the main character — clad in a white, sleeveless wedding gown and holding a flower bouquet.

We had chicken masala and chicken curry for dinner, which were good — much better than Indian food sold in Indian restaurants in Indonesia.

And then on the way home, we stopped by at a small grocery store, buying some stuff for night snacks — including some Swiss chocolate of course — and for meals the next day.

An Interlaken church.

An Interlaken church.

A friend of my aunt picked her up and they left for Zurich in the morning the next day, bringing our luggage with us. Only my brother and I were left. So, after having our breakfast, we checked out of the cozy apartment (it was really nice! I wish we can come back there one day) and then strolled through another side of the town I hadn’t explored with my aunt the day before, the one in the direction of Lake Brienz.

Snow had all melted away that day, leaving green trees and fields, as well as bright colorful flowers, all bare to the eyes. The turquoise stream of Aare river was as charming, the dark brown Swiss chalets doting the riverbank were very pretty. It was still too cold to sit on one of the benches on the riverbank for too long — to simply enjoy the view and breathe in the fresh air. I imagined how peaceful it would be to bring a good book to read on one of those benches on a summer day, while every now and then refreshing your eyes with the stunning nature all around you.

A nice walk with breathtaking view in Interlaken. That's me, btw. (Photo courtesy of my brother Bahri)

A nice walk with breathtaking view in Interlaken. That’s me, btw. (Photo courtesy of my brother Bahri)

My brother and I took a cable car to get on top of a hill in Interlaken, from which we could see the whole town, as well as the two lakes and arms of the Alps framing it. We then enjoyed hot Swiss cocoa in a restaurant on the hilltop.

It was very unfortunate that we were only able to stay in Interlaken for less than two days (including the one night hostel stay); that very afternoon already we had to grab a train to Zurich, Switzerland’s financial capital.

I would love very much to visit Interlaken at least one more time. Perhaps a late spring or a summer visit is a good option, because then you’ll be able to enjoy longer hours outdoor without being bothered by cold. Strolling alongside Aare to get to Lake Brienz and or Lake Thun is highly recommended.

Additionally, Interlaken is said to be a good base to explore its even more scenic surroundings — the neighboring valleys and mountains. From Interlaken, you can take a train trip to Jungfraujoch, the Top of Europe, which hosts Europe’s highest railway station at 11,333 feet.

Lake Brienz, right, from a hilltop in Interlaken.

A cable car station on a hilltop of Interlaken, with Lake Brienz on the right.

Footnote:
– Everything in Switzerland, Interlaken included, is considerably more expensive than in any other western European countries. These include prices for mineral water, restaurant food, souvenirs and train tickets.

– If you want to send some postcards home, don’t trust some random shop attendants offering to put the postcards into a mail box for you. I did that in Interlaken because I had to catch a train to Zurich, but none of the three postcards I sent to Indonesia was delivered. Those I sent from Venice and Salzburg did.
Find the mailbox and insert the postcards yourself. Hotel frontdesk officers are probably more trustworthy.

*All photos published here are my own, unless stated otherwise.

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